Unknown to fish hobbyists, starters or veterans alike, there are some chemical components that are need to be tested in the tank. These include carbonate water, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, alkaline, copper, phosphate, iron, dissolved oxygen, carbon dioxide, chlorine, chloramine, saline (salt) and specific gravity. Upon buying your fish aquariums, you should also buy a master tester kit. A few hobbyists may choose to get add-on test kits.

Test kits come as either dip strips or liquid droppers. Dip strips are placed in a test tube containing water and you get the results by comparing the water color with the card indicated in the kit. Liquid droppers are simply dropped in a test tube with water and shaken. After a while, you obtain your readings. A second opinion from other members of your house will help you affirm test results.

After buying freshwater tropical fish, you can start enlightening yourself on what water tests you need to you set up your fish aquariums.

Water test kits needed to set up your tropical fish aquariums:

Salinity test determines how much salt is liquefied in the water while specific gravity test identifies the weight or density of melted salts. (Only for salt water tanks for salt water fish)

1. Nitrate test must be below 20ppm which means the toxic nitrates will be lowered and harmful effects and stress level will be reduced.
2. Nitrite test must read zero which signifies that ammonia-like nitrites will be stopped from thriving more. Water replacement will speed up reduction of nitrite and nitrate levels.
3. Alkalinity test figures out how long-standing and secured your water is according to a switch of ph levels. Ph level from zero to 14 means acidic, 7 is neutral, and 14 has the highest in alkalinity. In tanks filled with saltwater, you aspire to get a reading of 7-12 so you can say your water is good enough.
4. Phosphate test suggests that tap water and fish food mainly have it. You must have a low reading of this because high presence of phosphate can trigger algae outbursts.
5. Ammonia test must be zero so that it can mean absence of the no. 1 killer of tropical fish which is ammonia that’s produced by fish trash and rotten food.
6. Calcium test is needed especially for saltwater aquariums. It should be richly present in the water as it accelerates growth of your tropical fish. You do not need to test for calcium if you have freshwater tropical fish. Dosing up your water with calcium by using a test kit should be done often in your fish aquariums.
7. Chloramine test is used to eliminate chlorine and ammonia from your freshwater before placing into your fish aquariums.
8. Chlorine test eliminates chlorine usually present in tap water and exterminates bad bacteria.
9. Copper test expels out the heavy metal that can be detrimental to fish and invertebrates.
10. Iodine test is necessary to increase iodine levels for corals and invertebrates usually present in saltwater. Iodine is consumed fast by aquarium organisms, so there should be maintenance of iodine levels.

Importance of Ph in your fish aquariums

Ph is a familiar term in skin care industry. It also plays a vital role in fish culture. Ph signifies the alkalinity and acidity of the water. Hydrogen (H) + Hydroxyl (OH) ions range from zero to 14. You’ll say acidic if it’s between zero and 6 but alkaline when reading says Ph level is 8 to 14. High concentration of melted minerals means high in Ph and the other way around as well. The tiniest shift in Ph would be stressful to fish. More acid means more threat to your fish. It’s important to note that water firmness, melted organisms and oxygen level in water will affect the Ph changes.

What actually takes place is that Ph in the wilderness is not as secured as you may have thought. Ph is higher on daytime and lower at nighttime in most ponds or oceans. Ph is higher in spring and lower in autumn. Ph in your fish aquariums won’t be lasting either. It shifts according to air exposure, ornament, gravel presence, melted minerals, water temperature and ammonia components. Water with high temperature is usually acidic. It’s not merely suggested to change your Ph intentionally. Don’t make changes in Ph speedily either. You can settle for peat filtration or usage of driftwood to decrease Ph, when necessary. Too much acidity in the water will make your fish prone to diseases. Stabilizing your Ph is the key to sustaining a healthy fish. There are fish aquariums books you might want to read that will tell you the best Ph for the type fish you’re taking care of.

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