Freshwater Tropical Fish Ich Disease

Just like free radicals, toxins and bacteria from the air we breathe, the so-called Ichthyophtirius or “ich” for short (a ciliated protozoan) is abundant in aquatic shelters that can be detrimental to the health of your fish. Ich attacks when there is an abrupt decrease of temperature that stresses a fish out. After you buy freshwater tropical fish and you let it join a pre-stabilized aquarium, the tendency is that it might have an ich outburst because it still isn’t attuned to the new aquarium. Ich is a boundless swimmer and a cilia-surrounded parasite. Once an ich preys on a fish, it creates a strong external shell or cyst. When encysted, the fish threat becomes a theront that resembles small white spots on the fish or salt-like covers. When theronts multiply, they evolve as trophozoite or trophont. Other ich organisms called tomites can become threatening in just 36 hours which will eventually afflict your freshwater tropical fish in your tropical fish aquarium.

Natural methods to eliminate ich or avoiding it from inflicting your freshwater tropical fish in your aquarium can be done. One method is by raising the water temperature up to 85-88 degrees because iches are naturally scared of warm water. Other methods are increasing air exposure, putting salt in the aquarium water and changing the water. Constant change of water will expel numerous tomites out of the tank. Once a fish surpasses initial ich infection, there won’t be any recurrence of such. Quarantining your new fish for three weeks works best to increase resistance of your fish.

Fish Fungus Disease – Freshwater Tropical Fish

Mostly afflicted through water moulds, fish fungus is another common fish disease. A fungus called saprolegnia is popularly linked to fish. If not detected early on, it might be ruinous. When water moulds emit digestive enzymes, they rot the tissues of nearby organisms and absorb proteins and carbohydrates.

Parasites called saprotrophs are trailblazers that acquire nutrients from non-living organic substances like fish unbeaten food, deceased fish or fish waste. Also, they can be very attracted to deteriorating fish. Fish fungus rolls up like white or grey scraps on the fish. They can grow from a tiny infection to becoming a serious inflammation.

Your freshwater tropical fish in your fish aquariums must be monitored closely to avoid fish fungus because it is hard to cure. In case of fungi attack, you can get treatments like Rid Fungus or Maracyn. A 50% water shift should be done before placing in the medication. Once the treatment has kicked in, you do another 50% water change to eliminate the medication substances.

Fish Pop-Eye Disease

The bulging of eyes in your freshwater tropical fish is called pop-eye disease. With this illness, a slim outer skin layer is blocking the eyes and pushes the fish to be less energetic and slowly enthusiastic about eating. It can also result to fungus infections.

If not treated early on, the fish might lose sight in one or both eyes. One distorted eye means an infringement but two bulged eyes identify severe bacterial infliction. Bad climate, metal intoxication, ammonia or high level of nitrites may cause pop-eye disease. Other causes of pop-eye disease are poor water quality, lack of Vitamin A, and gas bubble disease due to extreme oxygen infiltration of the water with nitrogen. When water gas pressure surpasses the amount of gas in the surrounding, it leads to over dispersion that may lead to pop-eye. If bubbles start to surface on the fish’s skin, then it might be an indicator of pop-eye.

Once the freshwater tropical fish has bulging eyes, it should be segregated and brought to the quarantine tank. Recommended medications for pop-eye are eSHa 2000, Anti-bacteria and Maracyn.

Fish Fin Rot Disease

Buy freshwater tropical fish online or at a retail store, regardless, if the fish was raised in poor quality water it could develop fin rot which is another common disease. White fins may be a sign of fin rot. When not addressed immediately, the rot may cause the fins to be tinier, reddish and inflamed with bloody scrapes. Fish can be intimidating each other in the aquarium resulting to torn fins. Overfeeding or overcrowding, failure to change water and presence of weakening matters in the aquarium can lead to fin rot.

When fin rot is noticed, verify if the water parameters are secured and change 50% of the water. The infected tropical freshwater fish should be removed away from the healthier ones. Medications for fin rot are Waterlife-Myxazin, MelaFix, Maracyn and Methylene Blue.

Other Fish Diseases and Symptoms of Freshwater Tropical Fish

Now that you’ve learned the common fish diseases, it is fitting that you know further about fish symptoms that may serve as your alarm. If you notice any of these, your fish might be in danger: (1) compressed fins causing your fish not to swim properly, (2) flashing against the tank’s ornaments, (3) swimming with the head or tail downward, (4) white patches, red sores and scales protruding, (5) hyper-activism or no energy to settle in one area, (6) overhanging and reddish anus, and (7) torn or cracked fins.

Fish symptoms may lead to more disease like: (1) Dropsy Disease if scales are obtruding; (2) Columnaris bacterial infection if lesions turn yellowish or brown and sores are noticed on the mouth, skin and fins; (3) Anchor Worm if an ulcer occurs; (4) Plain bacterial infections if poor quality of water is worsen; (5) Tuberculosis, if the fish loses interest in eating and isolates itself, or it speeds up breathing and eyes are nearly coming out; (6) Malawi Bloat if fish decreases appetite and stays in one spot for long.

What to do when fish disease symptoms are showing

Seeking a doctor’s help is not the common to do when freshwater tropical fish disease symptoms are noticed. First, you just have to take out the fish by using a net and transfer it to the quarantine tank. You should make sure that your hospital tank is huge enough. Your under gravel filter, if any, should be taken out once a disease-inflicted fish is admitted into the quarantine tank. You should also have an air stone or oxygen path that directs toward the water. Mechanical sponging or filtration can be done by in your ten-gallon quarantine tank.

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